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Old 04-24-2007, 11:07 PM
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Location: Elko, NV
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Make: Pontiac
Model: Grand Am
Engine: 2.3L SOHC
Quit running. Ignition module?

I have a 2.3L SOHC engine in my car. The engine is new. Last week it quit running going down the road. I just assumed it was the fuel pump, since it IS 14 years old and spent 5 years sitting, with rotten gas in it. Plus it was getting very noisy. I changed the pump, car started right up and ran until it got hot, then quit and is doing the same thing as before. I took the coil pack apart, the coils look brand new, not like they do when they shit the bed. I am guessing the control module has shit the bed. Is this a common failure? Are my symptoms consistant? Runs until hot, then stops running. "Trys" to start...but just won't. Not until it cools off to ambient.
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Old 04-24-2007, 11:10 PM
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ICM is shot , of u [ay shipping i have a known good ICM from a 1990 grand am HO you can have if it will work on the SOHC
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Old 04-24-2007, 11:23 PM
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I appreciate the offer, but I need it like now. I just bought a new one and paid $184 for it. *makes face*
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Old 04-25-2007, 09:07 PM
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Ok...replaced the ICM...same shit. Runs fine, then all of a sudden, for no apparent reason, it just cuts off like you turned off the switch. Sometimes it will restart, sometimes it won't...when it won't, it 'acts' like it wants to start and even backfires sometimes. Crank position sensor?

Note: It runs for the longest amount of time when cold. Once it gets hot, you can forget about it.
  #5  
Old 04-25-2007, 09:19 PM
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Make: Chevy
Model: Cavalier
Engine: 2.4 twin Cam
i had that problem with mine and it was my fuel pump. now i cant guarentee it will be your problem though.
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Old 04-25-2007, 09:23 PM
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Engine: 2.3L SOHC
Well, just replaced the fuel pump. I THOUGHT it was the culprit as well. The old one was getting VERY noisy. Replaced it, same shit. So then I suspected the ICM....replaced THAT, same shit. The coils are fine. Only thing left that I can imagine it being with the crank position sensor...or a wiring issue (god I hope not, fucking ACK)

It just quits running as if you turned off the key. No sputtering...nothing. Just OFF. AND, you can hear the fuel pump continuing to run, briefly, after it shuts down...so that's not it.
  #7  
Old 04-25-2007, 11:57 PM
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Engine: 2.3L SOHC
A moderately thorough inspection of the wiring leading UP to my CPS did not reveal any damaged or chaffed wiring. So I'm pretty sure it's not a wiring issue.
  #8  
Old 04-26-2007, 07:10 AM
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My clogged cat stopped me dead on the highway. I did not have all your symptoms though. Good luck.
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Old 05-11-2007, 11:30 PM
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Model: acheiva SCX
Engine: W-41
Change your coolant temp. sensor. I had the exact same problem, just fixed it today and it is as good as new!
  #10  
Old 05-12-2007, 10:22 PM
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i had this problem with mine, the wiring between the ICM and coils was shorting out, couldn't tell by looking at them but I changed them and it ran fine
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  #11  
Old 05-13-2007, 08:47 AM
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I have seen the same symptoms with the crank sensor gone bad.

Pull the ignition cover when it is hot and doesn't run, and put 4 spark plugs in it (preferably not the ones in your engine, as it is not recommended to remove them when the engine is warm) lay the plugs against the cam tower or other metal to ground them and have someone crank the engine so you can check for spark. Then you can narrow it down to whether it is an ignition or fuel problem.
  #12  
Old 05-13-2007, 08:29 PM
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IF your coolant temp sensor is bad you will not have spark or fuel injected into the engine.
  #13  
Old 05-13-2007, 08:38 PM
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when in open loop mode ( cold ) engine runs off preset spark and fuel curves , i beleive this is "limp home " as well

if your coolant temp sensor is bad then it should throw a code and run in "limp mode" not cut out entirely
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:08 PM
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not true, My car initially had the same problem, would run until it got hot then it would die. eventually it wouldnt start at all. I changed the CTS and it fired right up after sitting for almost a year.
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:26 PM
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Part costs $12 at autozone, and it takes about 5 minutes to replace. The worst that can happen is that you end up with a fresh CTS when you get it running. Check this out... won't run - A Community for the GM Quad 4 and Twin Cam Engines

Last edited by BGood; 05-13-2007 at 10:28 PM.
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