*THIS GUIDE IS NOT FINISHED*
Tools Needed:
Socket Wrench
12inch extention
10mm socket
1/2 socket
Long Phillips head screwdriver
Long Flat head screwdriver
Parts needed:
HO Intake Manifold (#24572273, #24572301)
2 HO manifold gasket (#22531631) or
RTV Silicone
Adapter Flange
2.3L or 2.4L Throttle Body
Breather Filter
1-2 feet of vacuum hose
5 M8x1.25 45mm bolts
2 M8x1.25 60mm studs
96-98 2.4's:
EGR Block-off Plate (#24575505)
EGR Block-off Plate Gasket (#24573947)
*If you are going to a junkyard to find a manifold, check out this list for cars with the manifold you want. The cars with the LGO or W41 are the cars you want the manifold from.
Quad 4 Equipped Automobile List
You can identify the HO intake manifold by looking on the back of the plenum where you will see a number, here are three numbers that will indicate it is a HO manifold #22538691, #24570288, #24571319, #24572386 (these numbers are just a few of many)
You can see how much larger the HO manifold is compared to the LO manifold in the picture below.
Removing the stock parts
-Disconnect the negative cable on the battery.
-Remove the IAT sensor from the intake pipe. Then open the air filter box, and disconnect the intake pipe
connected to the bong then remove the assembly.
-Remove the filter inside the box and unbolt the lower portion of the intake box from the body and remove.
-Remove the bong on top of the throttle body by unbolting the
two bolts by the fuel rail, then loosen the clamp around the throttle body via this
hole in the bong, lift up on the bong and remove the hose connected to the underside of the bong (this hose is where you will be connecting the
Breather Filter later), and remove the bong.
-Remove the
brake booster hose connected to the throttle body (you will cut this line later) then disconnect the wires to the IAC, MAP, and TPS sensors (remember what goes to what for future reference), finally remove the three vacuum hoses connected to the throttle body.
Red: MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor)
White: IAC (Idle Air Control Valve)
Blue: Brake Booster
Green: Vacuum lines (one on the left will be extended later)
Yellow: Vacuum line to fuel rail
-Remove the 4 bolts that hold the throttle body to the manifold and remove the throttle body.
-Remove the 5 intake manifold bolts (you will have to unbolt the alternator bolt to access the left hand side manifold bolt) and then remove two nuts from the lower studs. And remove the manifold (note: if you have an EGR there will be a hose connect to the back of the manifold, see below for more info). When you do this, pull off the vacuum hose and MAP sensor attached to the manifold (you will be using the MAP later).
-If you have a 96-98 (and even some 99 too) you will have to remove the EGR, unbolt the hose connecting from the EGR to the manifold do this by ether removing it from the EGR housing or from the manifold or both, after you have all the parts above removed, you will have to unbolt the EGR from the EGR housing and unhook the wire from the EGR, then remove the two bolts from the EGR manifold, pull the EGR off, then remove the 3 bolts holding the EGR manifold to the head.
-Once you have everything off you may notice that your intake ports are gunked up. Take a flat head screwdriver or something flat to gently scrap off the build up of sludge. Then clean the ports up more with some carburetor cleaner.
Modifying and Installing the Intake Manifold
-You will have to modify the two pairs of boltholes, the upper two have to be drilled lower (
Blue)
-The lower two boltholes need to be slotted out (
Red)
-Once you have the bolt holes all matched up dry fit the manifold and flange inplace and put the bolts on the manifold. Make sure everything lines up and then remove the manifold and flange.
-Once you are ready to intall the manifold, apply RTV or HO gasket to the adapter flange and slide it into place on the studs.
-Then apply RTV or the second HO gasket to the manifold and install the manifold just like you did with the flange, make sure everything is lines up then install the bolts and tighten them down, working from the center bolt and moving outwards.
-Note: If you are going to use the HO gaskets instead of the RTV, you will need to mod one of them to match the ports on the 2.4L (B-shape). The two gaskets will sandwich the adapter flange when installed.
-Attach the breather filter to the hose you removed from the back of the bong earlier and place it between the
manifold runners, or on the
left hand side of the manifold, or anywhere else you might like to place it.
-Attach the vacuum lines to the manifold using the diagram below.
Yellow: Attach line from fuel rail
Red: Attach a short vacuum line from MAP to port on manifold, bolt MAP sensor to ether of the two bolt holes (shown with red arrows) using an 1/4 x 1/2 bolt .
White: Leave the in sensor, or use a
Pipe Plug
Throttle Body Install
-The locations of the sensors and vacuum ports are show in the diagram below.
Red: TPS (throttle position sensor)
White: IAC (idle air control valve)
Blue: Brake Booster port
Green: Vacuum ports (two ports close together)
-If you are using a 2.3L throttle body you will have to drill out the hole on the throttle wheel so the pin on the end of the throttle cable will fit into the hole tightly.
-If you are using the 1989-1992 throttle body, remove the black plastic part on the bottom of the throttle body and pitch it.
-Install the IAC and TPS sensors on the throttle body (make sure you use the right sensors 2.3L sensors for 2.3L TB and 2.4L sensors for 2.4L TB), be extremely careful with the bolts because they will break if over tightened.
-Attach the throttle cable to the throttle cable bracket and throttle wheel.
-Attach the throttle body to the manifold with the new throttle body gasket, put the throttle cable bracket into place and bolt it and the throttle body to the intake manifold with the three bolts.
-Hook up the wires to the TPS and IAC sensors, if wires don’t reach you may have to open up the wire loom to give you some extra slack, there should be no cutting necessary to do this.
-Cut the brake booster line with a pipe cutter, or a hacksaw, but don’t be to ruff with it. Then attach it using the 90-degree elbow that is on the cut of end of the pipe.
-Next you will hook up the two vacuum lines to the throttle body,
Remove the vacuum hose from the area of the A/C compressor and take your extra vacuum hose you purchased and attached that to were you just remove the old line. Once you do that use the old line and attach it to one of the ports on the throttle body and connect that line to the new line (basically you just extended the old line to reach the throttle body) Then take the only line left, and attach it to the other port on the throttle body.
Intake Piping
-You can do this a lot of different ways, you can take a 90-degree coupler and some piping and route it back to the stock filter box location and put a large cone filter on it, or do a 90-degree bend down to the ground with a cone filter on it, or remove the battery and do a straight shot to the fender for a CAI or even route the piping around the battery for a CAI, you can also use your stock s-pipe with a cone filter, whatever you want to do is fine, but make sure you keep it away from areas that the filter can ingest water from.
-Here are a few examples. (you can click these pictures for a larger image)
Starting your car
-Double check all the vacuum connections and make sure all tools and extra parts are removed from the engine bay.
-Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
-Turn the car on, it will idle at 2500rpm-3000rpm till the IAC resets.
-If the problem doesn’t go away in less then a minute then turn the car off and check for vacuum leaks, make sure the vacuum lines are connected tight, and check the gasket areas for leaks.
-Also, try leaving the battery unpluged for the night to reset the computer.
-If you are throwing any codes take it to AutoZone and have them read the codes for you (its free)
-Now you are ready to enjoy your car, take it out and have fun with it.
Disclaimer
**By reading and using this guide you understand and agree that I am not responsible for any damage caused to your vehicle or others vehicles by using this guide. You agree that you are using this at your own risk. You agree that you will not hold others or me responsible for any damages caused to your vehicle or others vehicles by following this guide. You will hold yourself accountable for any harm caused directly or indirectly to others or yourself.
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